Tuesday, June 01, 2010<\/p>\n
\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Well now I know why nobody\u2019s building calliopes: the correct valves cost $120 apiece! With tax that works out to about $1,500 per octave!! Despite assurances from \u2018country cousins\u2019 that economic forecast is rosy in future I\u2019d still like to build #5 using the OPM principle: \u201cOther People\u2019s Money\u201d, don\u2019t ya know.. So open up those wallets friends and neighbors! Maybe it\u2019s time for a slightly more snazzy donation station in the shop.<\/p>\n
Wednesday, June 02, 2010, 11:21 AM:<\/p>\n
\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 –Continuing last night\u2019s thoughts this morning I thot I might construct one of those \u2018donation thermometers\u2019 that I\u2019ve seen outside of the local hospital and our local ASPCA, with goals plainly stated and status indicated as a climbing red bar on the white painted thermometer. Maybe it could be rendered in some webpage-friendly format, along with a link to paypal? Must ask Noelle<\/strong> and maybe Rich<\/strong>.<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Well maybe Grainger<\/strong> will have something cheaper? Will have to do a little rummaging. Not sure if there\u2019s a difference in price between brass or SS these days but will investigate that angle as well. And then there\u2019s the possibility of re-re-engineering the high pressure ones Tsutomu<\/strong> gave me; gotta see if I can make a larger \u2018piston\u2019 and enlarge the orifice still more.<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Another test I need to do: get some pipe plugs and drill \u2018em out to different diameters to determine just how large the whistle air entry hole has to be for it to be blow-able with vacuum cleaner exhaust. A favorable outcome there might mean it\u2019s barely possible to use existing valves or\u00a0 cheaper renditions of same with larger orifices.<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The other thing I need to do is to figure out just how those\u00a0green ones come apart: so far all attempts to dismantle one have been in vain. Will have to get a little more aggro in future; i.e. the place where one would expect to have a nut is, in fact, a rounded-over shaft end (I think) and I\u2019ll have to try grinding off the nub to see if the solenoid can then be removed from the valve assy. Said valve assy is topped by a massive nut but it can\u2019t be removed by anything other than an especially thin wrench that I don\u2019t have. Don\u2019t want to modify the one I\u2019ve got to do the deed either, but that may be the final answer; forceful disassembly of first one will tell.<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Noodling while waiting for camper shell place to redo wiring in truck so that camper shell transferred from old Ranger still works with new Ranger; i.e. red \u2018taillight\u2019 and internal lighting which is sorely missed at present.<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Ah! Good old ebay comes to the rescue! Took Rich\u2019s advice and searched over there. First hit: exactly what I need for a third of the store-bought price. Still and all I want to get some more input B4 I spend a grand on two octaves worth. These look good:<\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 3\/8\u201d, 12vDC, $30.95<\/p>\n